Antique Sapphire and Diamond Brooch Octagonal-shaped Sapphire, Old and Rose-cut Diamonds, Silver and Gold, Circa 1860

Dated to circa 1860, this brooch offers a genuine window into 19th-century jewellery construction — an octagonal-shaped sapphire set among old-cut and rose-cut diamonds, mounted in silver and gold, the metal combination itself a hallmark of the period, when silver was commonly used to set diamonds for its bright, cool reflectivity while gold formed the structural body of the piece beneath. Old-cut and rose-cut diamonds, both predating the modern brilliant cut by decades, produce a softer, more candlelit sparkle than contemporary diamond cutting, a quality period jewellery collectors specifically seek out for its historical authenticity.

Carat weight and clarity for the octagonal sapphire and surrounding diamonds are available on request. The silver-over-gold construction technique common to this era required real skill to execute well, since silver tarnishes and requires careful handling during the setting process to avoid damaging the gold structure beneath — a technique largely abandoned by the early 20th century in favour of platinum, which made the silver-and-gold combination itself a marker of a specific and comparatively brief period in jewellery history.

As a wearable piece, a brooch from this era carries an antique character distinct from later Art Deco or mid-century pieces — softer in overall form, with the octagonal sapphire providing structure against the more organic old and rose-cut diamond surround. Pinned to a lapel or gathered at a neckline, it reads as genuinely historic rather than merely vintage, appealing to collectors specifically focused on 19th-century construction and cutting techniques rather than the more commonly available 20th-century material.

Our workshop handles silver-and-gold antique pieces with particular care, since the silver elements can be more prone to tarnish and require gentler cleaning methods than later platinum-set jewellery. We recommend professional cleaning only through a jeweller experienced specifically with 19th-century construction, given the fragility that can develop in metalwork this old. Collectors specifically focused on 19th-century construction techniques will recognise the value in a brooch that predates the platinum-dominated settings of the 20th century, offering a tangible link to an earlier chapter of jewellery history that fewer surviving pieces represent with this level of clarity.

Independent gemmological certification for the sapphire and diamond content is available on request, and our specialists can discuss the circa-1860 dating and construction technique in detail with any serious enquiry. This brooch is entered into the Legacy register as a genuine 19th-century sapphire and diamond design. Contact our client team to arrange a private viewing or request documentation whenever convenient for you.

Specifications

• Metal: Gold
• Gemstones: Sapphire